The Jerusalem issue, November 2026
Jerusalem
Jerusalem does not ease you in.
Plan your Jerusalem trip
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Guests & rooms
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The Jerusalem reading list
All 12 Jerusalem stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Circling Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock in Half a Morning
Non-Muslims can't go inside the Dome of the Rock, but you can stand beside it. Here is the gate to use, the two narrow windows, the dress code and the rooftops that show you the gold.
Inês Almeida
Tours and tickets
Walking Jerusalem's Old City Quarter by Quarter
A half day on foot inside the walls: what to book before you fly, what costs nothing, and the hours and dress rules that decide whether you get in.
Inês Almeida
Walking Jerusalem Through the Shabbat Quiet
Twenty-five quiet hours in Jerusalem, walked properly: when to stand at the Kotel, which synagogue can take a whole group, and what actually opens on Saturday.
Inês Almeida
One Square Kilometre, Four Worlds: Walking Jerusalem's Old City Quarters
A calm, hour-by-hour guide to walking the Old City's Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian quarters — with honest door policies, prayer-time realities and what actually suits couples versus groups in 2026.
Inês Almeida
Jerusalem From Above: The Rooftops That Explain the City
Ten terraces, bars and café roofs — from a ₪5 Old City parapet to a Waldorf cocktail deck — and exactly how to time, book and read each one.
Inês Almeida
More from the Jerusalem issue
Two Markets, One Lane: Jerusalem's Mahane Yehuda by Day and After Dark
Elias Khoury
Tours and tickets
Inside the Tower of David Museum in Old Jerusalem
Inês Almeida
Tours and tickets
Walking Jerusalem's Armenian Quarter in Half a Day
Inês Almeida
Tours and tickets
Finding the quiet hours at Jerusalem's Western Wall
Inês Almeida
The Tram That Crosses Jerusalem's Fault Line
Inês Almeida
The Shared Stone: Inside Jerusalem's Holy Sepulchre and the City's Oldest Contest
Inês Almeida
The Garden Where Mandate Jerusalem Argued Over Coffee
Inês Almeida
An insider’s read on Jerusalem
Jerusalem's identity is carved from its golden limestone, a material mandated by law for all facades since the British Mandate. This gives the city a unified, timeless appearance that belies its fractured history. Conquered, destroyed, and rebuilt dozens of times, it remains a patchwork of distinct quarters and neighborhoods.
The character here is serious, spiritual, and occasionally exhausting. The city looks inward, focusing on tradition, memory, and the weight of its sacred geography.
Here, the ancient world is not a museum exhibit; it is a lived, contested, and highly charged reality.
From our Jerusalem guide
Eight neighbourhoods, eight ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Old City
History and religion enthusiasts. The trade-off is extreme crowds, aggressive vendors, and a complete lack of modern vehicular access.
A dense, walled labyrinth divided into Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and Armenian quarters, each with its own distinct atmosphere, smells, and rhythms.
Where to stay Mostly basic guesthouses and historic religious hospices. Best for those wanting to wake up inside the ancient walls.
Stay in Old City
Nachlaot
Creative travelers and those wanting a local, bohemian vibe. Trade-off: Very narrow streets, no parking, and older, sometimes drafty apartments.
A maze of narrow, quiet stone lanes, hidden courtyards, and small synagogues, bordering the Mahane Yehuda Market.
Where to stay Boutique vacation rentals and small guesthouses.
Stay in Nachlaot
German Colony
Families and travelers seeking a quieter, affluent residential base. Trade-off: Farther from the Old City and lacks direct light rail access.
Upscale, leafy, and relaxed, centered around Emek Refaim Street with its Ottoman-era and Templer-style architecture.
Where to stay Mid-range to luxury boutique hotels.
Stay in German Colony
Rehavia
Travelers seeking quiet elegance and proximity to major museums. Trade-off: Very quiet at night with few dining options.
An affluent, quiet residential neighborhood characterized by Bauhaus architecture, leafy streets, and a scholarly, upscale vibe.
Where to stay Upscale apartments and boutique hotels.
Stay in Rehavia
Musrara
Art lovers and those interested in the city's complex social history. Trade-off: Can feel politically tense due to its border location.
A historic seam-line neighborhood with beautiful 19th-century stone villas, sitting right between East and West Jerusalem.
Where to stay Limited options; mostly high-end boutique properties or vacation rentals.
Stay in Musrara
Yemin Moshe
Photographers and those seeking quiet luxury. Trade-off: Entirely pedestrian with steep steps; no shops or restaurants within the neighborhood itself.
A meticulously restored 19th-century neighborhood of stone cottages, blooming bougainvillea, and paved pedestrian lanes overlooking Mount Zion.
Where to stay High-end rentals or nearby luxury hotels like the King David.
Stay in Yemin Moshe
Downtown Triangle
First-time visitors wanting maximum convenience and transit access. Trade-off: Noisy, highly commercialized, and lacks historic charm.
The commercial heart of West Jerusalem, bustling with street performers, cafes, light rail trains, and shoppers.
Where to stay Mid-range hotels, hostels, and modern apartments.
Stay in Downtown Triangle
East Jerusalem
Travelers seeking an authentic Arab-Levantine atmosphere and excellent Middle Eastern food. Trade-off: Can experience sudden political demonstrations and security closures.
The bustling Palestinian commercial and cultural center north of the Old City, filled with bookshops, spice markets, and historic hotels.
Where to stay Historic landmark hotels like the American Colony.
Stay in East JerusalemBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in Jerusalem, with live prices from Viator.
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The Jerusalem guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Dolphin Yam
A long-standing institution known for reliable Mediterranean seafood in a relaxed, unpretentious setting.
Signature: Seafood paella
Jacko's Street
A lively, kosher kitchen serving creative fish dishes alongside meats in a high-energy market atmosphere.
Signature: Red tuna bruschetta with truffles
Happy Fish
An upscale terrace restaurant specializing in fresh Mediterranean fish cooked with local olive oil and herbs.
Signature: Whole grilled sea bass
Machneyuda
The city's most famous culinary hotspot, offering a chaotic, high-energy open kitchen serving creative, meat-heavy market cuisine.
Signature: Shikshukit (deconstructed kebab with tahini and amba)
Hatzot
The legendary birthplace of the Jerusalem Mixed Grill, serving spiced offal and meats since 1970.
Signature: Jerusalem Mixed Grill in pita
Sima
A classic, no-frills grill house famous for its perfectly spiced skewers and traditional Middle Eastern salads.
Signature: Lamb skewers with grilled onions
Azura
A legendary slow-cooked Iraqi-Kurdish institution tucked inside the market, serving rich stews from kerosene burners.
Signature: Turkish eggplant stuffed with ground beef and cinnamon
Yudale
The intimate, tapas-style sister bar to Machneyuda, offering small, inventive plates and a rowdy bar-side dining experience.
Signature: Polenta in a jar with mushrooms and truffle oil
Chakra
A sophisticated local favorite serving Mediterranean small plates, fresh pasta, and seafood in a lively, stylish room.
Signature: Roasted beetroot with goat cheese and hand-torn focaccia
The Eucalyptus
Chef Moshe Basson serves biblical-inspired cuisine using wild herbs and ancient ingredients mentioned in the Torah.
Signature: Makloubah (upside-down chicken, rice, and vegetable pot)
Mona
Set in the historic Artists' House, this romantic, non-kosher restaurant offers exceptional, refined European-Mediterranean cuisine.
Signature: Beef tartar with raw tahini and pine nuts
1870
Elegant fine dining set in a 300-year-old stone building, offering modern, kosher interpretations of classic French and Mediterranean techniques.
Signature: Slow-cooked lamb neck with root vegetables
Hummus Ben Sira
A cozy, late-night hummus joint serving warm, freshly ground chickpeas alongside cold beer.
Signature: Hummus with fried mushrooms
Aris Falafel
A tiny, historic stall serving exceptionally crispy, green-hearted falafel in warm pita.
Signature: Falafel with pickled turnip and tahini
Sabich Frishman
A bustling spot serving the classic Iraqi-Jewish sandwich of fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, potato, and amba.
Signature: Sabich with extra amba and tahini
Nocturno
A trendy cafe by day and cultural hub by night, offering an extensive, creative vegetarian and vegan menu.
Signature: Vegan shakshuka with tofu and spinach
After dark
Nightlife
Gatsby
A speakeasy-style club and cocktail lounge that transitions into a lively dance floor later in the evening.
The Underground
A dark, basement club hosting local techno and house DJs for a dedicated late-night crowd.
Notre Dame Rooftop Restaurant
Located on the roof of the Notre Dame Center, offering unparalleled panoramic views of the Old City alongside wine and cheese.
Gatsby Cocktail Room
A hidden speakeasy accessed through a secret bookcase, serving some of the most creative, artisanal cocktails in Israel.
Yellow Submarine
The legendary heart of Jerusalem's indie and jazz scene, hosting established local bands and international touring acts.
Mazkeka
An experimental music hub and community space hosting avant-garde electronics, noise rock, and indie acts.
Art & history
Culture
The Israel Museum
The country's premier cultural institution, housing the Dead Sea Scrolls in the Shrine of the Book and a massive collection of fine arts and archaeology.
Yad Vashem
The World Holocaust Remembrance Center, a deeply moving and architecturally stunning memorial and museum.
Tower of David Museum
Located in the ancient citadel, this museum tells the comprehensive history of Jerusalem using state-of-the-art interactive exhibits.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The most sacred site in Christendom, containing the empty tomb of Jesus and Golgotha, housed in a complex Crusader-era structure.
Western Wall (Kotel)
The last remaining retaining wall of the Second Temple, serving as the most sacred site for Jewish prayer.
Dome of the Rock & Al-Aqsa Mosque
The iconic golden-domed shrine and historic mosque, representing the third-holiest site in Islam.
Museum on the Seam
A socio-political contemporary art museum located in a bullet-scarred former military outpost on the old border between East and West Jerusalem.
Jerusalem Artists' House
A historic building showcasing contemporary Israeli art, photography, and sculpture across multiple exhibition spaces.
The New Gallery Musrara
An independent gallery focusing on experimental photography, new media, and social activism in art.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
Mild weather and blooming hillsides make this an ideal time to visit, though major holidays like Passover and Easter bring massive crowds and high prices.
Autumn
Pleasant temperatures and clear mountain air define this season, but the city is heavily impacted by the High Holidays when Jewish districts shut down completely.
Summer
Hot and dry during the day, though evenings in the mountains are pleasantly cool. This is the peak tourist season with high accommodation rates.
Winter
Surprisingly cold, damp, and occasionally snowy. This is the best time to avoid crowds if you do not mind rain and chilly winds.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
The high-speed train from Ben Gurion Airport to Yitzhak Navon Station is the fastest option, taking under 25 minutes. Shared taxis (sheruts) and private taxis are available 24/7, including on Shabbat.
Public transit
The Jerusalem Light Rail (LRT) is highly efficient, running along a single main artery from Mount Herzl to Pisgat Ze'ev, passing the central bus station and the Old City. Egged buses cover the rest of the city, but note that Jewish public transit stops entirely from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening.
Passes & tickets
The Rav-Kav smart card is essential for all public transit. You can load it with anonymous rides or daily passes (€-€€).
On foot
The Old City is entirely pedestrian but highly challenging, with steep stone steps, slippery flagstones, and confusing alleyways. Modern Jerusalem is hilly but walkable if you have good stamina.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Dress modestly when visiting any religious site: shoulders and knees must be covered for both men and women; married women may need to cover their hair in Jewish orthodox areas, and shoes must be removed in mosques.
- Respect the Shabbat: in Jewish West Jerusalem, shops, restaurants, and public transit close from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening. Avoid driving cars into ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods like Mea Shearim during this time.
- Always ask permission before taking photos of people, particularly ultra-Orthodox Jews, religious pilgrims, and military personnel.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Buy a Rav-Kav card at Yitzhak Navon train station upon arrival; you cannot pay cash on city buses or the light rail.
- Wear sturdy, non-slip shoes; the ancient limestone flagstones of the Old City are polished smooth and can be incredibly slippery, even when dry.
- If visiting the Western Wall tunnels, book your tickets online weeks in advance as slots sell out quickly.
- Carry a light scarf or shawl in your daypack at all times to quickly meet modesty requirements at religious sites.
- Avoid eating or drinking publicly in the Muslim Quarter during the daytime during Ramadan out of respect for those fasting.
- Use the Gett app to hail taxis; it ensures you get a metered ride and avoids fare haggling.
Before you go
Jerusalem FAQs
Is Jerusalem open on Saturdays?
Only in non-Jewish areas. West Jerusalem completely shuts down for Shabbat, but the Muslim and Christian quarters of the Old City and East Jerusalem remain fully operational.
Can I visit the Temple Mount / Noble Sanctuary?
Yes, but with strict limitations. Non-Muslims can only enter during specific morning and early afternoon hours via the Mughrabi Bridge near the Western Wall, and cannot enter the actual mosques.
How do I get to Bethlehem from Jerusalem?
Take the blue-and-white Arab bus 231 from Damascus Gate. It crosses the checkpoint directly into Bethlehem without requiring a pre-arranged tour.
Is it safe to walk around Jerusalem at night?
Yes, most tourist areas are highly safe. However, exercise caution and stay alert in the Old City's quiet alleyways after dark and along the seam lines between East and West Jerusalem.
Do I need to tip in restaurants?
Yes, tipping is customary. A tip of 10% to 12% is standard for good service in sit-down restaurants, while 15% is considered generous.